This also includes an external KO II and a Keystep Pro.
Finally starting my Eurorack. There were a few things I wanted to keep in mind while making this.
Relatively budget, maximum I wanted to spend was $3500, which includes the cost of the case, Keystep Pro, etc.
A lot of exploration, texture, and rich 'sound'.
I wanted a playground to figure out what sound I like and dislike.
With the KO II, I plan to use for external drums and the occasional sample, and my goal is to trend towards downtempo ambient with deep harmony and musical color.
I would like to hear y'alls thoughts, opinions, what I am lacking, if you think anything will be especially interesting, or if you have any experiences that you think I could benefit from hearing. I am a complete novice, so any and all help is appreciated.
Yeah I appreciate that, thanks. At the same time, I'm hoping to get some insight into mixer choices and the number of voices, as well as the question of whether to include some FX or sequencing here.
I did some changes today however I am not sure if I did it right
add a role of h2 to all the module titles in search results; this will make it faster to view.
module title h3 tags are now h2 tags
When adding modules, it would be really helpful if there was a "row" combobox that was bounded from 1 to max rows, so if I click add and I'm on row 2, I can add it to row 2 (right now, I can only make one horribly long row)
I don't quite understand this request
Can you add the module name to the alt text of a module? This would make it easy to view. Maybe even (hp) at the end so you know how many hp the module is?
modules in the planner now have module name and width in the alt
The following won't change the appearance but will make this navigable by table:
The enclosing container is a div with id of restraint. Add role="table" to this.
The rows are a div with class grid-row. Add role="row" to this.
for cells, add role="cell".
I did all this but I am not sure if that is right and working. The #restrain is just the grid for the modules where they "snap in", the modules self are in div#modules which are positioned absolute on top.
A switch in the module build to make modules focusable. This would add tabindex="0" to the module images. Then you can focus on it and use the keyboard commands.
Some way to select a slot (if I have module A and B and move B to the right, I might want to add a blank panel here.
I have to look deeper in this.
Where you have icons (like on the "add" links, for example, consider adding an aria-label like aria-label="add", which will announce the link as what it is. Right now they read as questionmarks.
I changed that on the module browser.
These would make this much more usable.
Thanks,
-- eroe
Check back what is improved and what is not, best, Knut
taking a look at this rack as it appears with all modules, the power consumption and all power data is available however, I’m still confused. Kind of that be able to apply that to a affordable power supply possibility for remote patching and was just inquiring to see if maybe others could suggest exactly how I would come to that conclusion as to what would be the best output that I would need to purchase.. I mean sure I would definitely appreciate product sugestions based on the data given but i really want to be sure to undsrstand how to in the future..
Enjoy your spare HP, don't rush to fill every last space, this is not like filling sticker books. Resist the urge to 'complete' your rack, its never complete so just relax.
I’m making techno using Elektron hardware (deep/minimal/hypnotic) in a Hypnus records direction (warpy synths, lots of organic percussion and ‘tribal’ hand drums sounds, only a few harmonic elements, kick, HH, sub-bass). I’m now gradually adding more modular into my workflow and after playing with 62hp for a while am now step-by-step adding modules to 7u 104hp.
My plan is to use my Elektron Octatrack as final mixer / performance looper + my Elektron Tonwerk as FX processor/additional textures/some percussion.
Other Pads / noises / textures / weird sounds (Tonwerk + Tonwerk sampling the modular)
I reckon most FX and Midi to CV sequencing can be done by the Elektron boxes, so haven’t included sequencing or FX in the modular.
In terms of routing, I am wondering whether to add a performance mixer with 2 x Sends (e.g.Boredbrain Xcelon). Not sure if Xcelon would be overkill for this setup but would be nice to have the two stereo outputs. For example, one stereo out going to the Octatrack (bass/kick/synth) and the other going to the Tonwerk (for drum bus). The OT has 4 inputs and TW has 2 inputs.
My aim is to develop this into a performance setup, with elements of live modular improvising, but pre-recording some elements into the Octatrack i.e. leaning heavily on Octatrack looping and sampling to pre-record elements.
I'm trying to work out of this all fits together and how to use the remaining space. The case is Befaco 104hp 7U. I'd really appreciate any thoughts:
Anything look a bit off about the setup?
Ideas for filling the remaining HP?
Should I invest in a good performance mixer like Boredbrain Xcelon , WMD Performance /Channels, Nano Performance, ALA Bartender , Cosmic Pro, Erica synths drum mixer (this mixer could replace my existing Instruo Carn, or maybe go alongside it with one of them could handle Drum submix)
Hi all,
I am a totally blind user, relying on a screen reader.
I'm building my first eurorack setup and would really love to create a modulargrid version so that I can share it out with others.
This is sort of usable, but it's a bit tough. I'm curious if there's a chance that I could help work on this to make it accessible (I'm fluent with python/php/javascript) or if people here are open to suggestions.
Here are my ideas just starting:
add a role of h2 to all the module titles in search results; this will make it faster to view.
When adding modules, it would be really helpful if there was a "row" combobox that was bounded from 1 to max rows, so if I click add and I'm on row 2, I can add it to row 2 (right now, I can only make one horribly long row)
Can you add the module name to the alt text of a module? This would make it easy to view. Maybe even (hp) at the end so you know how many hp the module is?
The following won't change the appearance but will make this navigable by table:
The enclosing container is a div with id of restraint. Add role="table" to this.
The rows are a div with class grid-row. Add role="row" to this.
for cells, add role="cell".
A switch in the module build to make modules focusable. This would add tabindex="0" to the module images. Then you can focus on it and use the keyboard commands.
Some way to select a slot (if I have module A and B and move B to the right, I might want to add a blank panel here.
Where you have icons (like on the "add" links, for example, consider adding an aria-label like aria-label="add", which will announce the link as what it is. Right now they read as questionmarks.
hello, about that redesign, i am unable to reach the delete hover "btn-group-vertical module-edit-btns" on 1u rows, unless its the left-most module. i worked around via hotkeys but this is new since revamp. cheers
-- poepoe90
I have uploaded a change that willl hopefully fix the issue. Thanks for reporting!
Hello,
If one device is going much faster than the other, it could be an issue of their PPQ (pulses per quarter note) settings being different. It sounds like maybe the Beatstep has a higher PPQ than the Pam's, so the Beatstep it outputting the clocking pulses faster than the Pam's is expecting them at any given BPM. For example, if the Beatstep is outputting 24 PPQ and the Pam's is expecting 6 PPQ, the Pam's would have a BPM 4X faster than the Beastep. I hope that is helpful!
Edit: I should add that the PPQ settings should be adjustable within each device. They're generally not permanently fixed parameters on modern devices. So you would just have to adjust the settings so that the PPQ matches between the two devices.
Guess I switched timelines or something because when I opened up the site I was actually still logged in! I jest. Thank you for your hard work, it looks great!
Thank you! It looks much better and seems to not move modules around (or out of the case) randomly. However, the "keep me logged in" feature doesn't work on my computer. It worked just fine in the older version.
Electronic musician, improviser, composer, sound designer in Berlin
I play the INA/GRM Atelier, a Strega, a 0-CTRL, a small case of mainly Make Noise modules, a Chromaplane, a Lyra-8, a Hydrasynth and Ableton Live in solo concerts and in bands.
hello, about that redesign, i am unable to reach the delete hover "btn-group-vertical module-edit-btns" on 1u rows, unless its the left-most module. i worked around via hotkeys but this is new since revamp. cheers
The precision adder lets you switch multiple oscillators/modules up or down octaves without spreading oscillators out of tune with each other.
Flipping a switch to raise or drop an octave is a convenience compared to re-tuning with a knob, and more accurate than most active multiples.
You can also use it to transpose a sequence to another key with a second sequenced cv.
The first channel lets you ease in with an attenuator, so you can add a bit of wobble or other modulation fun to multiple voices.
Or you can use it to goose several modules a little bit into tune, all at the same time.
I guess it's value depends a bit on if you are going after playing notes 'in tune' with something else or itself.
I don't mean that negatively.
I know a lot of synth musicians don't want anything to do with that, and that's ok.
We forget after doing so much in digital, that analog is so squishy in its tuning.
The A-185's "precision" keeps combining or switching 1v/octave cv-s dead on. Really handy all the time.
i recently got an arturia beatstep pro. but when I’ve tried to synch up the clock of pams with the beatstep's clock, it always goes way too fast, and doesnt even synch up with the bpm! does anyone have any advice?
what´s so special about it?
Does the slope-control affect much?
Im also searching for a new filter and am considering Faun.
I have a BASTL Ikarie at the moment.
How is it compared to that (unless the stereo) ?
Im interested in filters with special character, timbre and also for experimental uses.
Nekyia Root Locus seems also interesting to me.
I don't like it make it go away!!! Hahaha, actually looking good to me, smart.
Enjoy your spare HP, don't rush to fill every last space, this is not like filling sticker books. Resist the urge to 'complete' your rack, its never complete so just relax.
We were dealing with 13-year-old JavaScript libraries - everything was creaking. Website relaunches often go wrong, but this one was necessary. With the old codebase, ModularGrid had become extremely difficult to maintain, making bug fixes and further development hard and, in some cases, impossible.
We’ve modernized the code and made some visual adjustments along the way. It’s no secret that ModularGrid is built on the Bootstrap framework, and we’ve continued to use it with the help of a designer who wishes to be called "the Ghost".
We fixed many bugs, but we’ve no doubt introduced some new ones. The good news is that they should now be much easier to fix.
There are also a few new features:
• the search now includes an exclude filter
• pedalboards can be converted from inches to centimeters
We tried to change everything without changing anything.
Last item I sold on there for $500, my payout was $432. And it is impossible to speak to a human for support. There's a scammer that has a spoof website, but their AI doesn't understand what I'm trying to report.
I have a seventeen 17u/104hp beautiful Needham walnut rack that I would like to sell for half what I paid. Are there any market places other than Reverb?!
I want to build a system with linear response oscillators. The beating and phasing changing over intervals is so much more pleasing than exponential response oscillalators. It doesn't have to be Eurorack, and DIY is a plus. Any suggestions?
Thank you!
Yes i think it turned out good enough for a first attempt.
With the white finish i am still a bit sceptical, now it has this retro console look somehow..
I actually wanted to try the white finish to see what kind of colors can overpaint it nicely.
Would love some black macro pattern on top of it or an entirely new paint job..
i will experiemt around a bit and probably build a simmilar 7u case as well.
hahaha I know what you mean! The best way to do it is stick something small (screwdriver) in the hole, angle the case until the nut slides against the screwdriver. put the case horizontal and then give gentle puchs against the case untill the slidingnut is alined with the hole.
Hey modular nerds, here to report @Soundmonkey. They received the cash for 2 Make Noise modules: LxD & DXG and never answered after the money was received (approval on their end). Meanwhile saw ohter users adding thumbs down on their profile, I reached out to them and apparently also bought the same modules and never heard about it anymore as well. Here's all informations gathered to identify them:
Email of contact: miloo040922@gmail.com
First Paypal account they gave me was not verified by Paypal: algenisvidal@hotmail.com
Second Paypal account: bonchesrdtravel algenis@gmail.com
hej all,
im new here and wanted to give an update on this diy case build using custom aluminium U-profile.
So overall for doing it the first time it was medium difficulty for someone with rusty metal and wood crafting skills :)
materials where really afordable, overall maybe 80-90 euros, less if you have the building basics.
+ about 1/2 to 1 day of your time
+
Prototyping of the sidepanels was done with hard cardboard, which was super helpful to get it right...
for84 hp, 4u i needed the following materials
Custom aluminium U-Profile from online service - about 38 euro
rails- about 35 euro
cheap birkwood sidepanel ( with cutting service)
M5 and M3 screws. drillheads for aluminium and wood
beewax, wood color and
a drill
One issue that came up.is that it is easy to drill into the aluminium,
but really hard to match the sliding nuts with the screw holes
since it is completly covered by the case.
what helped was to use a torch and look through the hole
while pushing the nut carefully. but even then it is possible to have trouble fitting it!
