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hi.
I use the ADDAC200PI, works really good. Never had a problem with this module.
-- Luis

Hi Luis,
Thanks for your response about the ADDAC200PI, if I can get it somewhat easy it looks like I will go with that now.
How did you find it to get hold of the ADDAC200PI? Did you buy direct from ADDAC System, or was it in stock somewhere else?
Thanks again for your advice!

Recently bought a 2HP Batumi Expander from the friendly @echox. Thanks a lot for the smooth transaction!

hi.
I use the ADDAC200PI, works really good. Never had a problem with this module.

DR-670 Drum Machine
BeatStep Pro
Mother 32
Phonogene
Maths
Woggle Bug
Circuit Bent VCO
Pico VCO
Clouds
Pico DSP

EDITED Sep 29th 2017, 15:54

Following my earlier discovery that Synth god Jean-Michel Jarre is also a big fan of Erica Synths modules, I decided to brew up a dedicated noise machine for myself.
Why don't you give it a Zoolook...
Keep Patching.

Seems to me it shouldn't even say that. Digital delays are very different from bucket brigade devices both in how they work and how they usually sound, and if the PT2399 can be called "bucket-brigade style" then the term is meaningless. We might as well call a spring reverb "digital style" - it would be equally true.

Just to add my 2p... Smooth & friendly sellers I did buy from over the last 6m or so:
@igorsv
@empirix
@damir501
@schroeder
@pibou
@highlight
@str101 (assuming the Disting will be ok :-) ).
Thanks all!

A 2 x 104 based around a Moog Module.
Comments as always welcome. What's missing? What's unnecessary?
Keep Patching.
(For some reason I'm not seeing some of the modules in this preview, click on pic if blank spaces visible)

EDITED Sep 27th 2017, 21:32

Just another poke about. An attempt to build something that would make Psytrance.
Probably overkill on some things and missing vital components, but I'm enjoying trying to figure things out/fill the rack.
Comments welcome.
Keep on patching.

I would have to respectfully disagree. IMO, running a site is not simply about building an environment where people can interact as they please; that is, if I can get away with it, then it is fair game. One would imagine that the site operator would create an environment where people would want to come visit and feel secure exchanging money and items. Mandating secure exchanges between users does not in anyway make ModularGrid liable for outcomes. In fact, providing a safe haven for con-artists and then throwing up your hands because the careless buyer did not see the con coming is far more legally hazardous. This is not about being a good or bad netizen either; it is about commerce and growing/maintaining a site. More buyers and sellers will participate in the market if there are protections in place–protections that ModularGrid has no role in providing or enforcing, which decreases the work load entailed in responding to user complaints, while potentially increasing traffic. PayPal and other services have provided an infrastructure to avoid these problems, and it is a solution that decreases rather than increases a buyer's risk, and decreases rather than increases the site's need to attend to these issues. A solution to a con that says, "Treat buyer's like adults and demand they be more discerning," is a solution with an unacceptable fail rate. If the site operator wants to limit rip-off artists from setting up camp in their market, requiring accountability is the way to go. Don't get me wrong, I am totally fine with things as they are. I've never had an issue, but if things are left as they are, then the site operator will continue to field emails and messages about the thieves and bad actors in our midst. If the this thread's purpose was to discuss changes to the status quo, then there is a solution.

EDITED Sep 28th 2017, 03:00

I think that paypal's buyer protection on the goods/services buying option is a way to instill some confidence in a buyer. If the seller refuses to accept goods/services than I take the extra 3.5% or so of pp's charges for the seller. If the seller STILL refuses to accept the commercial payment I start getting very selective. Only when the seller has a track record of good conduct I will buy from him. Once I had more than one successful transaction I will gladly go to friends/family. Never had a bad transaction that way.

While it may be possible to make the commercial transaction mandatory, as forum operator I wouldn't go there. The only safe way for him is to strictly keep out of any legal involvement in forum member's dealings.

Well, in the end every one is responsible for his actions and any consequences thereof. When I'm buying from a forum member I will always check:

• date of registration
• number of posts
• number of racks
• accounts on other forums
• other traces of activity on the internets

If all that amounts to a profile of a well behaved active netizen with a good reputation all around I will buy.
If it doesn't I will move on. While no single item on the list is a a reliable indicator, all of them will tell me.

In other words, if I buy without protection from a member who registered just shortly, with no references to other internet activities, has made 0 posts, rated 0 modules, has 1 empty rack but a dozen modules on offer for cheap --- I'm probably very stupid.

Mhm. The manufacture page says "bucket-brigade style".

Would it be possible to simply require commercial payment via PayPal or other services that allow arbitration through their infrastructure so you do not have to deal with it and we can have confidence in our purchase? If someone is unwilling to sell via a commercial account, perhaps their listing is too risky for everyone involved. I have purchased via the market place and did not have an issue, but I paid via the PayPal business option.

-FF

I found the solution. There is a three pin header on the pcb near the Orig. knob that ought to have a pin jumper connecting two of the three pins to either 1) force a square wave on the incoming signal or 2) pass the original signal through. The jumper was missing from my module when it arrived. Without the jumper between the pins, the signal will not be controlled by the Orig. knob. I contacted the manufacturer and he suggested I take a jumper from a two pin header located behind the F/4 knob, which controls the AC/DC output. This jumper is not necessary for audio performance so I just slipped the jumper off the two pin header and used it on the three pin header as a work around. They are going to send me a replacement. Thanks for looking into it.

-FF

I think original should output the original sound. I sold my module a while ago and can not remember exactly but did you read the Doepfer manual? Maybe it is more clearer then.

Hey man, Thanks for the reply. appreciate the feedback. That is a tasty little starter rig. If I ever get an opportunity to make a start in a real life build I will begin with a twin 104 definitely, then make another to stack on top :D I don't think I'll ever get to a studio wall build, my main interest is to make some instruments to gig with.
Keep Patching.

Thanks!

How the F do I preorder one?

Good call on the price gents!

seems like you have thought of everything you need in a complete startout-system.
i see vco's, vca's, filter, mod sources and a sequencer so that will make sounds for sure =)

the only advice i can give you is start as small as you can (module wise, a big case is nice ;D) and then let your system guide you to the next modules.

maybe you an use my little starter rig i am currently building as an inspiration:

i tried to fit as much basic features as possible into a 2x104HP makenoise skiff.
my plan is to get this finished and then get a big ass studio case and expand from there ;)

EDITED Sep 26th 2017, 04:42

Dear Synthesists,

I recently acquired a Doepfer A-115 Audio Divider. The four frequency sub-dividers work wonderfully, however the original attenuator seems to do nothing. Is there something I am missing? If all other knobs are "off" and the "Orig." is on, shouldn't there be a sound? If all other attenuators are producing sound, and I turn up the "Orig." knob, shouldn't I be hearing an effect on the signal?

Thanks for any help.
FF

I put a foot on the slippery slope. I started watching youtube videos for the Monotrons I'm currently messing around with, and one thing led to another, videos of them connected up to an MS20 mini, tried one in shop, didn't think much of it, I found the map and choices of connections very confusing opposed to the videos of fully modular synths I'd started seeing as suggestions. But you all know the score, that's why you are here too, modular is ADDICTIVE. I don't even have a single module yet and I can't stop watching videos, trying to discover if I could make the stuff going around in my head come to life given the opportunity.
So here I am, piecing together a 4 tier rack for shits n giggles. I probably have too many things I don't need and am missing vital things I do. It's all just daydreaming anyway. Feel free to laugh at my setup. If you want to add constructive comments, please do. I'm sure there are more important newcomers who need your expert advice. For now, I'm just pipe dreaming and gathering ideas.
Keep on patching.
https://cdn.modulargrid.net/img/racks/modulargrid_516918.jpg

How the sound comes out of the rack shouldn't really be an issue - you can just plug the output of whichever module is last in your chain (in your case, probably the mixer) into whatever you're using - a PA system if you're doing a live performance, PC-style speaks for noodling around at home, etc. The modular's native level is a fair bit hotter than what people call "line" level, so you may have to turn down the volume a bit, but it normally works well. Buying a module specifically for "output" is seldom necessary.
I wouldn't buy two Mother-32s for a new rack - I'd rather have more variety - but if you already own them, okay.

Or just get an Envelope Follower??

Oh meanwhile I have the uzeus powering teo small mothers cases. Works ok for me and powers two rows of 60 Hp.
Actually it looks like this at the moment:

https://cdn.modulargrid.net/img/racks/modulargrid_480588.jpg

EDITED Sep 25th 2017, 20:45

He has since removed all of his modules.

I have send him a message he did not answer so I have removed his module offers.

EDITED Sep 25th 2017, 13:38

EDITED Jun 16th 2018, 18:36

I'd recommend Blinds for VCA-type duties in a drone-centric rack. I also have a VCA4p, which is a more standard VCA, but I admit for drones I go to Blinds first because it is bipolar. I don't have it (yet) but I'm seriously eyeing Verbos' Scan & Pan, especially since I can use the left and right outputs just as outputs 1 & 2. For modulation I've been using oscs that can go into sub-audio range as LFOs, but Just Friends is next on my list since it has 6 outs.

I've not used it, but I see people often recommend a Disting for those starting a rack, so that if you notice you're using one of its functions often, you should start looking at dedicated modules for that particular task.

Thanks, that is the new task before me, learning how to push a code onto the chip. I'm going to YouTube school to learn, but if you have any suggestions to learn, big thanks.

Uzeus is no good, anything with flying bus boards will give you cross chatter, bleed and instability, the small doepfer DIY LSU's are the way to go in terms if stable, cost effective power supplies.

https://cdn.modulargrid.net/img/racks/modulargrid_503661.jpg

Hello, i´ve got two mother32 which i plan to put on the rack. My intention is to have a basic synth with effects and random posibilities. Also sampling capability. In this way have a compact all in one synth for performing and traveling purposes. I don´t know if the mixer is the best option and also have doubts on how the sound comes out from the rack. I´m in Colombia so possibilities of seeing demostrations is difficult as getting hands on. Please help me in my rack.

Best regards!

EDITED Sep 24th 2017, 16:39

@christophefur is now posting modules very under priced and claiming he has cancer.

-- hawkfuzz

I don't know about his condition but I have messaged him because some of you have doubts if those offers are legit.
I did not get an answer so I have deleted the offers.
Knut

I advertised he is a scammer on each module page he was selling. He has since removed all of his modules. I think this is good enough to remove this person.

@christophefur is now posting modules very under priced and claiming he has cancer. I'd use extreme caution before sending any money. Honestly I would not even bother because he definitely had the module I ordered but never sent it and made a shady story about why he couldn't send it anymore after taking my money.

Holy Hell mods please do something to find out whether or not this is real.

He had a sob story for me when he didn't send me my module. The price should've been a flag.

Is this real or is he making this up? I didn't see anything on any other of his social media accounts.

You better measure actual current in your system, and then compare it to the calculated value. You can do that by plugging a multimeter between PSU and bus board.

I use a make noise rxmx for mixing, it has a control voltage input to switch between channels but it seems you dont have enough HP for it. Studio electronics levels is a decent 6 channel mixer for the price but no CV, but its cheap. AniModule M1xXOR is a switching mixer which might do the job for you.

Hi Folks,

i have a HUGE problem! i cannot come up with a solution for my setup, i can sequence my 4 VCOs / sound sources, can modulate and filter them but how do i mix them? it would be nice to have a mixer with switches to turn on/off a channel instantly and with voltage control over gain per channel. and i am thinking about switching clouds for a ''normal'' reverb module... the clouds is a little bit hard to tame it seems to get out of control really fast (parasites installed)

can you help me?
greetings Dennis

The far right hand 1U mult is the output, 6 mono and 2 stereo pairs to a side panel that has corresponding 1/4 jacks to my mixer. Side panel also has the switched mains power socket to a pair of Meanwell PSUs.

I had this happen to mine. You can push the code to a new Atmel chip but it may require you update/recompile sketches from the code on GitHub

The prices of those modules already rang an alarm bell. No way someone would sell all those Mutable modules for that low. Elements for under $300??? His description also makes zero mention of the condition the modules are in, shipping details, stuff people usually clarify for buyers.

Want to say thanks to @lowslab for Intellijel Metropolis. Super quick shipping and packaging is just a piece of art.
Highly recommend this person.

Hey ya'll! Just received two DIY modules from @PinPinKula - very clean soldering work, plus a very nice and helpful guy with awesome looking house slippers!

Turns out I was correct, the module is protected from reverse voltage but not over-voltage. I'll buy a new chip.

One of my first module, not selling. My goto module for bass :)

When putting together my distribution board, I stupidly swapped the +5v (top right) and the +12v (top left) in the molex wire terminals. When I fired it up, the board "worked." My Make Noise modules were fine, but the Στοιχεῖα (Rebel Technology Euclidean Sequencer) stopped affecting CV. The center top LED still lights, but the lower two shutter on and off, if they light at all, and the euclidean sequence does not occur. The knobs have zero effect. So, I think the Atmega 168 chip has been damaged. It has an intake limit of +6v, so if it was fed +12v, then, "Houston, we have a problem." Am I on the right track here? Or is there something else these symptoms suggests? I could just swap out the chip, right? The Make Noise modules are protected. I have rewired my board and now all is well, but I really like the Rebel module, so I hope to revive it.

Thanks for any advice.
FF

EDITED Sep 22nd 2017, 05:48

Altoid tins on your pedalboard are used for storing your picks, capos, ear plugs, and other small items. Quite useful really.

I listened. I enjoyed!

Hello, I already have arturia microbrute, dreadbox hades and doepfer dark time sequencer and I am trying to build a fairly ''cheap'' eurorack.
Feedback is welcome!

EDITED Sep 24th 2017, 16:01

Now he's even pretending to have cancer and asking for donations in addition to the price of the modules. Best way to avoid fraud is to ask them to send a pic of the module before buying and then do a reverse image search to see if they stole it from online.

But yes EVERYONE SHOULD BE AWARE that @christophefur is actual human garbage who trivializes life-ruining diseases and steals from others.

I've got a CO, plus I should have the Random Sampling tomorrow and I've owned the Harmonic Oscillator in the past.

I don't know what your friend was comparing them to, but the Verbos modules are some of the nicest I've ever used. The panels are very heavy, which gives them a very sturdy feel. The pots and sliders are all very high quality and the sound is to die for.

You get what you pay for. They aren't cheap, but I would have no reluctance recommending any of their modules. I plan on buying more as funds permit.