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Keep in mind with the Intellijel I/O that you can use 1/4 inch cables of the sound outputs
from the Subharmonicon / Moog32 / DFAM to input directly into your Eurorack on its input side
as 1/8 inch cables, and then out again as a whole with 1/4 inch output cables (or 1/8th if
directed into any of the semimodulars). Do you use an external
mixer unit? I found that helps immensely to bring everything together, and 1/4 cables are the way
to go.
If you ever want to use guitar pedals as an extraneous modulation, it is simple to loop through
those as well.
which can both input and output in just 10 hp. The Ochd - expansion combo rocks! Highly recommended.
-- halbroome
For now I don't see the use of a "line in" module, but thanks for the suggestion!
And thanks for confirming that the Ochd Expander is cool :)
this is why we use an output module that will adjust to the line level required
-- Sweelinck
Coming back to the "line out" module, I did a little bit more research. Space is crucial and I would want this module to take as little room as possible. Do you all think that an ALM HPO coupled with a Y cable TRS → 2x TS would do the trick for a stereo output? Or would it be better to have a proper L + R output module (Happy Nerding Isolator or Befaco Out V3, for example)?
Pams is very fluid with barely more than one nested menu in most use cases
-- Vegamorph
I also watched more "in-depth" videos about Pam's and, yeah, I must admit that it seems quite easy to get what you want. Plus the euclidian rythms part seem really nice. But (not considering its size which would make me pass on some other modules like the contact mic + looper) I'm afraid it would be partly redundant with Dice/Marbles. I know each one has unique features, but considering the number of voices I have I fear it may be overkill. What do you think?
wow i cant thank you enough for your detailed response regarding my case. I actually purchased a Veils V1 now thanks to your inpus and I will alao purchase the MISO next week
It repeats some of the more conventional functionality of Maths, yes, but this frees your Maths up to do other interesting tasks like envelope generator, slew limiter, (low or high frequency) oscillator, subharmonics generator, envelope follower, filter (or just gives you more of the vital functions they share to control your modulations). You aren't really missing functions and tools in this setup - it's more about plumbing to ensure what you have does what you need.
Looking at this system, another idea is one of those 2hp passive low pass gate modules like the Meng Qi DPLPG or the Takaab 2LPG (which is almost better because it has a switch to change between no filter, some filter, and more filter, making it good for transitions or CV). I know you have the Optomix, and that one is great, but I have a 266t and those noise sources are great for percussion or weird sounds to send to resonant filters. It's an ungodly cheap and compact way to add more signal paths into your setup.
Frankly, blanks could also work at this point to create space between some of the smaller and denser modules for ergonomic purposes. Like all of my suggestions, really, this is based on the fact that what you have is already a very deep and powerful system that, supplemented with computer material, can provide you anything from drums and percussion to 60s art noise to pretty twinkly melodies and be very productive. I wouldn't add anything much more complicated to this and a computer (and whatever else you use, I guess) before stopping to practice, record (ABR - always be recording), make some songs with it, assess, and see how much progress you've made so far. Ultimately, you and your responses to what it does will be the best guide.
Intellijel Quad VCA and Tiptop MISO. Boring on paper but super fun in practice. I also have a little Buchla based setup and modulation/expression/movement is key here.
If you have a DAW and some money to spend, though, you might also look at the Expert Sleepers ES-8 or ES-9 interfaces for interfacing your DAW and modular. Especially in tandem with VCV Rack. It has DC-coupled inputs and outputs so you can sent control voltage to and from your computer, thus allowing you to use software and hardware modules in the same context. This means your setup can expand indefinitely without you spending much money at all, relatively speaking.
Even if you do this, though, I still recommend some kind of hardware attenuation or VCA just to make things playable. The Doepfer A-133-2 is a good small option. 2hp has the Avert and VCA modules, but be careful with these - you have to make sure you have a place for them where they won't get buried and inaccessible.
Erica Synths has a series of educational modules for learning about electronic music generation. This is their kick drum version 2.
A very good kit. Easy to build, and sounds good. Would be a fine addition to a rack.
Even if you don’t buy the kit, I recommend you download the user manual, it’s a great practical guide to electronics in music.
Hi again :)
I am looking for a stereo filter to use after my Monsoon.
A bit more details: I am using a wavetable voice (Osiris) going through a SEM filter which then gets processed by a mid side module (WORNG MidSide+). The side is processed by a reverb (reverse reverb from FX Aid). This is fed into Monsoon. I would like to tame down the processed audio with a stereo filter.
Any advice or opinions on this type of filter?
Currently looking at Shakmat Dual Dagger, Bizarre Jezabel pkhi mk3, WMD Overseer. Multimode would be a plus :)
Thanks for any advice or input :)
L
@Vegamorph Ok, I understand. Right now I only use it at home. I may take it to holidays, but that's not sure so if it happens I'll buy an output module. If I can confirm there is no problem with outputting modular level to my mixer, I'll dedicate the few HPs I have left to something else.
Spectraphon and Quadrantid sound nice, but they are so big compared to the space I have left in my case... I get your point about not 20 different modules all at once. Do you feel that what I plan right now may not be workable?
I'm trying to take it slow (it's hard for me, but the fact that I try to buy all my modules second hand is actually helping me), so as I get the modules progressively I may change my plans for the rest of the case.
I got Maths because it's very often described as a "must have" module, but yes, if I don't get along with it I'll sell it to get simpler modules.
Zack, thanks for your suggestions! Will definetely take a look at VCV Rack.
The three 2hp modules with the stacked patch points (the walls) are the problem indeed. The flimsy knobs of the VCA don't help either. I'm thinking of moving the DPLPG right hand side to the Tiptop Module. But then you'll end up with a mess of cables on top of the the Z5000.
On the other hand these modules contribute so much. One thing I learned while compiling this tiny box is you have to compromise with functionality and ergonomics, and for me aesthetics too. Did I mention power consumption?
Don't be afraid to put things in odd orders so the setup is more ergonomic. What may seem intuitive or natural as a design could be keeping you from playing the thing better. I have two passive low pass gates in 2hp (Meng Qi and Takaab) and I like them a lot, but they sort of form a wall between two sides of your modular when fully patched, and trying to keep a 2hp MMF or Mix next to that and still use them was a challenge. Thankfully, all the other modules in that row are big and very accessible no matter how aggressively I patch them up. Is there a specific area on your setup that's hard to access? I imagine the Doepfer side is doing good since everything is nicely separated into patch points and knobs and you can just sneak in behind the cables, but I could be wrong.
Right angled cables can also help here. There are special "low profile" ones, but even the regular ones help keep the wire mess on the sides of your rack rather than on top of it.
This will likely be the final incarnation of my Little Effects Box. Got rid of the 903A and put in a 2hp VCA and a Meng Qi DPLPG instead. The DPLPG is very nice, especially for modulation purpose. For now I'm quite happy with what I can achieve with this little system but also encountered some limitations in functionality and ergonomics.
Thanks again to everybody who contributed to this thread. I learned a lot and might as well buy a bigger case in the near future ;-)
There are some amasing modules out there that I suggest you look into.
1) Make Noise Spectraphone
2) Eoawave Quadrantid Swarm
The Spectraphone I dont have yet but it seems to be a powerhouse.
I have the Quadrantid Swarm and is totally amasing really.
Dont cut yourself short buddy, If you buy 20 modules at once and all of them do 20 different things this is not going to be very workable instrument. I have had modules that seem awesome when you read the manual but when it comes to using them they just don't work for me.
I don't use Maths, I'd rather have those functions in separate modules. One of my favorite modules is a Doepfer decay, one stage envelope. That thing is unbelieveable, the harmonic distortion you get from it is fantastic. A low pass gate, another genius thing. Check out the XPO from Make Noise if you are looking for a vco. Eweryone seem to have Maths and Pamela and Ornament and good for them, I don't need them, atleast not now.
But also don't think I know all this, concentrate on what you want to hear, picture a sound and try to find the gear that will help you produce it.
There are people in youtube land who like to make things sound more complex than they are. Someone who actually knows what he is talking about and has a deep understanding of the subject, will break it down to the most simple and basic level.
So if manuals and menu diving are not your thing, don't torture yourself. Take those things one function at a time, one module at a time, use your ears instead of your eyes. You don't have to always understand what you are doing, that will come in time if you stick to this.
In case some wigglers had issues with the velocity record function not working (double press vel & mod wasn't possible) - this has been resolved.
FW 1.4 should be online in a sec. http://www.flame-instruments.de/flame2/downloads.html#takt
i suppose a lot of this depends on your specific expectation of the rack(s). i also use an external mixer for parts of my rack, as well as external gear. But if i pop on to a modular meetup, I want to take a small case with a dedicated small hp output for simple plug'n'play duties. This is both the blessing and curse of modular; the permutations of modules are endless so it's worth having a plan of how you plan to use it.
I will look into the Disting and Pam's, then. The matrix mixer seems interesting too!
When I bought my case I didn't know about line level vs. modular level. So I plugged the output of the Cloaks directly into the Moog mixer, and the output of this mixer into the Aux In of my speakers. As you can plug headphones directly into the back of the Moog semimodulars, I guess they output line level audio, and that it's the level that is expected by the mixer. Anyway, the modular level delivered by the Cloaks never caused any audible problem down the line. I hope it didn't cause any hardware damage either, but as the opinions I read about the necessity of an output module were mixed, I didn't give it too much thought. Until your post, that is... So here I am, not knowing if an output module is necessary as long as I keep sending my modular signal to the Moog mixer, or if I can save a few precious HP for something else :)
Been super busy lateley and very little synth love but... I squeeked in a short jam. I have been working to learn my Keystep Pro now that its back from getting repaired. Also playing around with a little video synthisis. I don't have time to get into hardware on it right yet so I played with a software synth for this.
I am learning that its not always easy to make something sound good on several different audio setups :-). I have a sub and decent monitors set up when I am jaming but then I get it onto my laptop or phone and not so amazing :-( But hey... This is a journey for me and not a destination...
The level of Cloaks/Veils outputs corresponds to the level used in the modular world. This is a much higher level than that used by the almost majority of external/usual audio equipment (level called 'line') and this is why we use an output module that will adjust to the line level required (by most mixers or recorders, for example).
Please note, the StMix is a small (but excellent) mixing module. It allows you to mix signals inside your modular and it is not designed to be an output module.
PS: As @Vegamorph suggests, Disting mk4 and Pam's are worth considering, and no difficulty using them. No need for degrees from Harvard University, University of Oxford plus École Polytechnique.
I'm no expert but the limited experience I have in transferring from synths and semi modular to modular, if that I needed lots of modulation for those lovely sounds. It was both vca and envelopes that I quickly used up so my recent purchases have looked for things that double up as secondaries for those tasks. I agree the disting needs a manual on hand which sucks but Pams is very fluid with barely more than one nested menu in most use cases, and the oled really helps. but for bang for buck, it's great.
These few comments. Yes, save a place for an output module: Pico is a good compact module but others like Befaco also offer very good solutions. I agree with you regarding the presence of two filters, for a number of reasons including the positioning of voices in the sound spectrum. The 4ms Ensemble Oscillator is one of the best sound sources currently, not to be put in the same category as the Liquid Glitcher which is just a nice gadget.
-- Sweelinck
Currently I output the Out4 of my Cloaks/Veils directly into the small Moog mixer I got with my DFAM / Mother 32. Thus I don't know if I really need an output module. I checked what Befaco had to offer though, and found that the STMIX could be useful. I also removed the second Cloaks to replace it with a more compact Happy Nerding 3x VCA. Do you think my utilities / VCAs needs would be covered with all this?
I also added a 2HP contact mic / preamp because I would like to experiment sticking a piezo on litteraly anything and feeding it to Rings/Resonate, Mimeophon, Loop...
I would suggest a disking mk4 if space is limited. i mean its 86 modules in one. And a Pam's if you want to clock all those oscillators easily.
-- Vegamorph
The menu diving scares me a bit, I must confess. It may be stupid as complex modules with many knobs can be even more complicated to master I guess... Disting is really tempting, I may give it a go and resell it if it doesn't fit. Pam is even scarier to me, and I already use the T2 output of Marbles/Dice, or the clock out from my Moogs to trigger my modules. Do you feel it may not be enough?
These few comments. Yes, save a place for an output module: Pico is a good compact module but others like Befaco also offer very good solutions. I agree with you regarding the presence of two filters, for a number of reasons including the positioning of voices in the sound spectrum. The 4ms Ensemble Oscillator is one of the best sound sources currently, not to be put in the same category as the Liquid Glitcher which is just a nice gadget.
I'm currently building my first rack, I use it to make some kind of ambient music, but with a noisy twist.
I also have Moog DFAM, Subharmonicon and Mother 32. So I would like to be able to output the signals of these into my case, but also to play my rack as a stand-alone.
Here is what I have for the moment. I find it nice to begin with, but I would like to add more voices. I also miss some attenuation if I want to ouput the signal from the case to the Moog. And I guess some filter would be a nice addition.
And this is what I'm considering buying next, but I'm having trouble making up my mind:
Erica Synths Pico Out: don't know if it's necessary as I rarely play with headphones, but would be a plus if I take the case on holidays.
Happy Nerding 3x MIA, or Frap Tools 321? People seem to like both for different reasons, but can't decide which would be best suited for me.
2hp Loop: may be a bit redundant with Mimeophon on "hold", but allows looping up to 5 minutes of sound, so would be great for noisy backgrounds? Any other idea for sound mangling compact module? Maybe an FX Aid?
Frap Tools 333: large number of mult/mix possibilities. Seems the best option to me.
DivKid Ochd Expander: for a larger choice of modulation. Any opinions on this?
Another Cloaks: I guess another voice + stereo output would force me to take this amount of additional VCAs.
Qpas: I think it's a pretty Moog-esque filter, but the sound shaping possibilities + stereo output attract me to it. Any thoughts?
So yeah, a whole bunch of questions, please feel free to give your opinion or tell me if I've forgotten something important.
I'm also open to other modules (though not too keen on screens and menu diving).
Thanks :)
Thanks again for the heads up :) Muchh appreciated.
That is exactly what I am doing :)
Though it takes (not always) Batumi some time to sync properly and correct te offset.
Do we embrace this sonic masterpiece hiding in a dumpster fire, or do we maintain some standards? Because, let's be honest, we're all a little shallow when it comes to our gear...
Hey :)
Thanks for offering to help.
I am troubleshooting the issue since yesterday.
As described in an earlier post:
I have 2 patterns for my kick module.
One is coming from a sequencer and the other is coming from Batumi in divide mode (input 2), clocked on every beat (4/4) from my case. The same clock is also sent to sync/reset input 2.
When I switch from the sequencer pattern to the Batumi pattern (2nd output in square mode), sometimes Batumi is not giving me the expected result, ie the sequence falls on 2 and 4 instead of 1 and 3.
Sometimes the solution is to cycle through the 4 Batumi modes until getting back to divide mode.
Also, based on your post, I tried to switch from Sync to Reset (with Poti) and it seems to work but takes various attempts.
Can you describe your issue a bit better? What exactly is the issue? I still think that it has to do with batumi not knowing which of your triggers/clocks is the first one to start the bar. You need to find a way to give the LFO the chance to get that first beat. Then it can sync to that speed.
-- SLFE
I may be mistaken, but I think you're talking about the general 4 rows limit imposed on non-Unicorn users, not related to being Buchla: https://www.modulargrid.net/e/users/pro_index
The current limit of the number of rows in a Buchla case is 4.
A lot of of the bigger portable cases on offer, as well as some recently unveiled soon to be available studio cabinets are five rows high. Please help me feed my GAS.
Can you describe your issue a bit better? What exactly is the issue? I still think that it has to do with batumi not knowing which of your triggers/clocks is the first one to start the bar. You need to find a way to give the LFO the chance to get that first beat. Then it can sync to that speed.
Easy! You check this site and decide if it is for you or not / download the firmware. Then you unplug your Batumi from Europower and plug it via USB to your PC. Start the "XAOC Firmware Update Tool Win". It should automatically find your connected Batumi (Power from USB, not the Eurorack Power) here you can select which FW you want. This one is called "batumi-iw-v1.0.bin". Select it and upload it to your module.
It just adds extra shapes to your assign out jack. Just press the select button on the batumi for 2 seconds. If you press it shorter you have a "Zoom mode" with attenuation, phase etc. But after a 2 seconds press (all LED flashing briefly) you can select four different types of random slew/stepped for each of the four LFOs with the sliders. Short press on the select button again and you are back to normal with the selected mode on your assign out. Pressing select for 4 seconds sets all LFOs back to standard operation (all LED flashing wild). It's really easy but adds so much.
Took me one or two sessions to familiarize it but I will definitely keep this FW.
I have no idea how to change FW on Batumi.
Do you mind going through some explanations or is it too much to ask?
I have not found so many resources apart from a few tutorials on YT.
The Reset/Sync thing is not working as expected though...
