stereo multi-effects processor
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Upgraded/Improved Digitech RP-1. The original workhorse.Fully functional, and in great condition. Now as it always should have been, and solid as a rock.See photos and full description below for details. The included video starts with a few seconds of test mode display before the knobs, buttons, and foot pedals were installed. Then a very basic demo of functionality. Two things to keep in mind. One, it was recorded using a phone and the sound is 'less than stellar', and two, I don't get into tweaking and changing the parameters of the patches that are on these like I do on my personal one to suit my regular tastes as I upgrade/modify them. I just stick with the factory patches. For instance, there are many different distortions, amp/cab/speaker simulators, all with gain and 'balls' parameters. The one in the video leans towards a 'metal' sound but the RP-1 is not limited to that and has a wide range for most any style._ _ _ In DigiTech's first transition from the rack to the floor with their multi-effects processors the RP-1 was a big leap forward, added even more flexibility to its user definable effects parameters for the great tones that they were/are known for, both with great clean tones and with different kinds of distortion. All parameters are user adjustable.These are rugged and reliable.Great unit if your a not a fan of things being unnecessarily complicated, and before things started getting miniaturized and with unnecessary 'bling', but like the ease and flexibility. So many of the pint-sized units that came later were plastic, and are constantly being sold for "parts only".They put you in control so you can concentrate on your playing. The factory patches on most multi effect units are basically just a starting point for the user to tweak to their style and tastes. Spend time with the manual and explore the many different parameters and you'll easily make it your own. _ _ However, there were two 'issues' with the RP-1 when it came out that fell slightly short.This particular RP-1 handles/solves those in the following ways:First was more of a nuisance issue I.M.O, where the designers thoughts were probably still in the standard individual 'floor pedal' mindset. As with singular pedal effects that don't need or typically have one, they designed it without a power switch. Wrong decision I.M.O.So the user had to plug/unplug the unit for use. This is not practical and subjects the cord to unnecessary stress.As seen in the pictures, a standard rocker style power switch was installed and configured next to the A/C cord socket. _ _ The second was more of a real issue: HEAT. In the original design for the first couple of years, the power supply section was part of one of the main P.C. boards and had the heat sink portion fastened to the same short rear wall as the rear jack inputs, just to the left of the A/C socket and under the LCD screen (seen on any older unit that has two screws there) to try to dissipate the heat generated.They revised the internal design circuitry a few times in the first couple of years, but it wasn't until mid '93 that they separated the rectifier section with its heat sink away from the main board and attached it to the bottom base plate. The most effective place for it.Thus using the entire bottom panel to absorb and transfer as much heat as possible away from the main board. (This is visible externally by the presence of two screws on the bottom close to the ones that attach the transformer to the bottom, and running perpendicular to them. Also by the absence of the 2 screws on the back wall mentioned above).This is where the unit was normally fairly hot to the touch. It was an improvement, but still incomplete.Also, with only thin rubber anti-slip pads between it and the floor, there really wasn't enough room for air circulation around the unit for allowing the heat from the bottom to escape efficiently. It was suffocated even more if used on a carpeted surface.SOLUTION: New Inlet/Outlet cutouts were made to the case. One on the bottom panel underneath the transformer for incoming air, and one on the rear jack wall panel where a quiet high RPM 12V fan was installed to blow internal heat from the power area out of the case and away from the main board. (There is no hum in the signal or any interference from this fan addition).Bottom cutout has metal screen mesh covering it for protection from debris, and the fan outlet has a full flow finger grill.The original mounting holes for the transformer and heat sink mount were now made slotted to allow for adjustment backwards for maximum space behind the fan for it to be as efficient as possible, and a new application of heat sink compound was added when re-mounting the heat sink board to the bottom panel to aid in heat transfer.Completed by the original thin rubber pads being removed from the bottom, and replaced with new 1/2" tall anti-slip feet that raise it up from the floor and increase the air space properly to allow natural circulation as well.This RP-1 now runs approximately 60-70% cooler to the touch on bottom surface than it did originally.I always test these RP-1's with these improvements for quite some time, and have used it/left it on for hours at a time and it continuously remains much cooler than originally built and functions fantastic.Note: I don't use the MIDI function, so that is the only area that isn't personally tested by me, but presumably works because it passed the self diagnosis.It sounds great through my rig, or used with headphones when the house isn't empty but 'playing can't wait'. Easily used anywhere. _ _ _1 currently available, from mid '93. It is all fully functional, every pedal and switch. Fresh onboard battery for retaining your parameter changes. Complete with Original Soft Travel Case (Gig Bag) and Owners Manual.Thanks for stopping by.
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